Like the legend of the she wolf suckling Romulus and Remus Malacca can claim that its establishment was due to a courageous action of a timid animal – a mouse deer.
Legends
Local legends claim that banished Sumatran Prince Parameswara tired of wandering the seas landed at this spot with his faithful but aggressive dog. The dog seeing a mouse deer went for the attack the deer though was fearless and rapped its hoof repeatedly on the dog’s nose until the hound was driven backwards into the sea.
Parameswara, resting under a Malacca tree was so impressed by the deer’s courage that he resolved to establish a trading post at the place and to name his new settlement Malacca.
Flourishing Court Life
Strategically located on the ancient spice route that linked China to India and the Far East the sea lanes off Malacca were continually busy with ships passing by or re-stocking with provisions. Parameswara’s new community flourished on the duty levied on passing ships it soon grew into a thriving trading centre with peoples from all over Asia and beyond seen and heard on its streets and in its markets.
The revenue from this trade allowed court, cultural and artistic life to flourish, but the halcyon days were numbered. The wealth of this little nation attracted the covetous eyes of the emerging European colonial powers.
Colonisation
The Portuguese were the first to colonise Malacca they annexed the city-state in 1511 and stayed for the next 150 years. Then in 1641 the Dutch took control and in their turn were ousted by the British in 1824. With a brief interlude in the Second World War the British stayed in Malacca and the Malay Peninsula for the next 136 years.
Historic Malacca
The only place to start a tour of Malacca is at the centre of Dutch control: the Dutch Square better known as the “Red Square” because of the striking red painted original Dutch buildings.
Central to the square is an enduring symbol of Dutch authority; the imposing Stadthuys, built in 1650 it served as both the seat of government and as the governors’ residence. At over 350 years old it is believed to be the oldest Dutch structure in Asia. It is now home to both the History and Ethnography museums.
Echoing the grandeur of the Stadthuys is the solidly built Christ Church again painted in vivid red it was constructed in 1753. Once inside look up at the ceiling and marvel that this wooden structure contains no nails or screws and to all intents is a jointless structure. Take a while to rest in the original handmade pews to enjoy the glazed tile decorations.
Emerging from this holy place one is confronted with a colourful display of flowers that lead the eye to the red painted clock tower and to the “Victoria Fountain” that plays water against a granite column as a reminder of the 130 years of British rule.
Trishaws
Plying around the square are a host of colourful trishaws and their equally colourful drivers. They are one of the nicest ways to get around historic Malacca taking the ride at a snail’s pace it is possible to see all to be seen and to stop and browse at leisure. These vintage bicycles have been modified with a passenger seat, protective umbrella and usually a three-tone horn replaces a modest bell.
Malacca is one of Malaysia Heritage Towns, the other being Penang, both a well worth a few days sojourn.
